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Finally some sun in Luleå! We head towards the city center, by bus this time, to find out that tons of people are enjoying themselves on the frozen river. There are large paths, installations, benches, hockey field, fishermen, even cars and tractors! That’s the family day activity here.

Naturally we venture. What a great feeling to be in the middle of this completely flat white ladnscape, surrounded by the city and forested hills. It’s at this almost romantic spot that I say my goodbyes to Alex. It was so nice of him to join me for a week! I really appreciated to have some company for a bit, it had quite a relaxing effect somehow. And this time, I was the one having all the worst ideas while he was always right on the decisions. You’ve changed buddy.

While Alex stay in Luleå until his night train to Stockholm, I get on a train to the Finnish border. Or so I thought.

The controller came to me and explained me that there’s an issue with another train, and there’s a change of plan. We will change train in Boden [Boden, Sweden] and will be half an hour late. All good, I have the whole day to spend in Haparanda/Tornio. He also told me that I was the ONLY passenger in the train, so it was just me, him and the driver (hear that SNCF?), something that I don’t think ever happened to me.

So he didn’t open the train cafeteria, but brewed coffee for them and offered me one, and gave me some visiting tips for Tornio. What a total legend! If you ever read this, thanks man!

I ended this quite surreal morning by changing train in Boden, towards Haparanda. There I got my bag sniffed by the Swedish border patrol dog, and went on my way.

The reason I step off the train here rather than in Finland is because there are no rail link between the two countries, as they don’t use the same gauge (the distance between the two rails). I’m pretty sure there’s a rail bridge though, but no passenger service. I walked towards the river estuary that marks the border, and it’s also completely frozen. Oh, what a sight, having a new country just a few hundred meters away. The urge to cross an international border by walking on a frozen river was immense, but I couldn’t see anyone doing it, hence I deemed it as potentially dangerous and/or illegal. Both countries are in Schengen and the EU though.

I walked along the bank until I needed a break (food, toilets, bagpack, planning…) and spent an hour in Ikea. The great thing there is that the cafeteria as their own comfy couch, ehe.

Unfortunately, when I get out, weather at totally turned to full-on fog. Damn it! I also elected to not wear my thermal clothes today, however it is freaking cold now.

Oh, Sweden. I was scared for you, to be underwhelmed after the Norway epicness, but you know what? You fuckin’ rock! I had an amazing week in Sweden, especially in Lapland, with the Northern lights and the remote atmosphere in general.

I walk towards Finland, and without even noticing it, I’m back in the Eurozone.

Hei Suomi!

I still have a few hours to kill there, but the weather is too shit, too cold, so I take shelter in the mall. Bah! So much for the controller’s tips… At least I got my week planned up to the 16th.

Tornio train station is located quite off the center of town (a good 30 min walk), and surprise! It doesn’t have a station building, just a platform. Which was a curse (45 min of waiting in the freezing cold), but turned out to be a blessing: I got to see another Northern light!

This was so lucky (again). I’m not totally outside the city, there were clouds, and forecast had 30% chances… Get in! It wasn’t big and lasted only 10 min, but I’m not complaining! That was magical. On his side, Alex was back on the river where I left him and got to see a very large and bright one, all over Luleå!

Finally the 80th train of the journey arrive to end this crazy out-of-the-ordinary day. It’s a double decker sleeper train, however beds were extortionate even with Interrail pass, so I’m on a seat. Lights will blast all night, that’s not gonna be a good one… This is dyers eve, as I’ll be a zombie tomorrow.

In the meantime, here is the very late video of the crazy fourth week: