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Early at the bus station. I’ve decided to go all the way to Durrës, and tomorrow take the train there to Elbasan. It sucks hard because I really wanted to spend time on Lake Ohrid, but nope. I’d rather be safe and not miss the Albanian train.

And when I say « the », I mean « the ». There is only one train in the whole of Albania going Elbasan and back once a day, but only Friday to Sunday! On Tuesday, there is also a short train further North, between Shkodra [Shkodër] and Laçi [Laç] but it is a train for pilgrims, so I have no idea if other passengers are even accepted.

Anyway, I bought a bus ticket to Durrës, but when the bus arrives, the driver tells me he goes no further than Tirana (which is not on the train route, by the way). Starting off well… Whatever, we’ll see.

Turns out we had a change of bus in Тетово [Tetovo], but still the new one won’t go further than Tirana. However, he does stop in Elbasan, so it will be where I drop off.

Ah, what a serene way to travel, in a minibus, in mountain roads, under the rain, without a safety belt, surrounded by reckless drivers, and a driver on the phone half the time…

However, the route was INSANE. Superb mountains, despite the weather, that even gave them a more eerie look, that I watch pass by through the dirty window of the bus.

We left the mountain to drive along the North edge of Lake Ohrid, so at least I would have had a glimpse of it. Soon though, we reach the border. North Macedonia, you gave me a tough fight, but, ah! I win! I hope to see you again for real though, you are magnificent!

Strangely, my loss of morale in the last couple weeks got quite inverted, and I think it’s mostly due to the difficulties I had to face. Yes, on this blog I complain a lot, and on the moment I also stress a bit. But to be honest, it’s a great motivation source. Having to figure out a way to go from point A to B via J, O and G, in a tight schedule makes my brain buzz with activity and keep me going. On the other hand, it means that this feel less like a travel and more of a race and a challenge, and at times make me miss things I wanted to see dearly. A curse and a blessing, but for the moment, this journey is far past the point of visiting. I’ll have time to chill when I will have the Albanian train in the pocket, and when I’ll reach Croatia in two to three weeks.

Përshëndetje Shqipëria!

Again an easy border crossing, with the driver collecting the passports and we’re back on our way.

Which immediately climbs up a pass and OH MY GOD it’s amazing! First the overview of Lake Ohrid, awe-inspiring, then simply a breathtaking, jaw-dropping vista on the Albanian side of the mountains. It is one of these borders where you can unironically say « Wow, it’s so much different than on the other side ». Where the North Macedonian forests were covered in forest, those on the Albanian side are bare with only a few shrubbs between red rocks. The route to Elbasan is even better than this morning, I’m just stunned. That six-hour drive went by very fast!

Although it is sooo frustrating to see that disused railway running along the road! Grrr…

Finally in Elbasan, and I feel like I’m in the middle of Asia, traffic-wise. It’s an absolute chaos, the roads are riddled with pot-holes. It all feel very poor I’m affraid.

I walk to the train station, which is a tiny building almost hidden between two others. But now I know where it is, so I can find somewhere to sleep. Ah yes, I don’t have internet data in Albania, and I don’t fancy paying 60 € again like in Moldova. I will also be out before 6 AM, so I’d rather sleep nearby. That’s how I checked-in in a hotel 10 min away… Yeah, I’m not proud of it at all. A hotel, very much not in the spirit of this travel. But the only hostel I found earlier was full. Bah!

I went back into town, walked in the old walled city, and came back, as theere’s not much to do around here.

Tomorrow morning, the answer to all that week of stress will finally be answered: does the train actually exists?