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We left the comfy appartment late in the morning, and started by waiting half an hour at the post office (who will be the lucky one?). After that I wanted to go to the train station, as I’m doing something tricky tonight.

The Bar, Crna Gora [Bar, Montenegro]-Београд [Belgrade] is said to be one of the most beautiful in the World. Unfortunately, the day train only tuns during summer, and right now only the night train does the whole trip. However, there are regional trains on both sides of the border. So here’s my cunning plan:

Since I’ve already done the Bar, Crna Gora-Podgorica leg, I’ll start in Podgorica. First, take a regional train from there to the border town of Bijelo Polje. Then wait a few hours for the night train, take it only for an hour between the two border towns, dropping off at Пријепоље [Prijepolje] at half past midnight. Sleep in the train station or get a cheap hotel there, and finally take a regional train at 6:30 AM. This has the bonus advantage that I might be able to step a quick foot in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but more on that tomorrow.

The uncertainty is that I have no idea if it’s possible to take the night train just for the border hop, hence my visit to Podgorica station, as I expect Bijelo Polje to be just a tiny shack with no one there when I arrived at 19:30. The woman at the booth didn’t speak English, and as too often often in the Balkans with that kind of people, was quite unhelpful. She told me the train was full.

Damn it!

Ideas ran into my mind. Well, my friend Nicolas told me this morning that he’ll join me 10 d later than initially planned, so I can wait here a few more days. Maybe go to Nikšić and back by train this time? I went back to the station. « Until when is it full? « Full, full full!!! » Come on! This train can’t be fully booked to next week? To the day that never comes? to the end of times??

Grrrrrr… I had to think fast. There is NO WAY I’m not doing this trip by daylight. I decided to go with the plan, and try to get into the night train. I’m a bit scared to do that without booking, as there’s a Serbian border on the way though. I booked a Bijelo Polje-Пријепоље bus ticket for the next day, just in case.

And with all that, we didn’t get to visit Podgorica more, as it was time to say my farewell to Kamel. Thank you for taking the time and money to join me for a week and a half Kamel, and for pushing me forward into places I would have missed by myself. Even if you’re so picky about accomodations! 🙂

Back on my own now until at least the end of the month. I waited again half an hour to the Post Office to print my bus ticket, only to be told to go elsewhere, then I had a last Cockta at the mall. A few hours later, I came back to the train station. It was a different lady, so I tried my luck asking again. She spoke English and was nice and helpful. And yes, I can take the night train just for the border, and guess what? I don’t even need reservation, it’s free with the Interrail pass. Let’s fucking go!

For the train ride to Bijelo Polje, I will let the pictures speak for themselves. I will just say this:

This is the most beautiful, jaw-dropping, awe-inspiring, mesmerizing, majestic, impressive train ride of my entire life, at the very least tied with Oslo-Bergen. Please, do that train ride by day at least once in your life.

The old train was compartment-carriages only, with the seats on the right side of the train. However, everything to see is on the left side. But who the hell cares about seats, when you can stand for just two and a half hours at the OPEN window, gazing at deep canyons and valleys?

I left the train at the terminus, stars in my eyes and feeling high on life. That was a dream ride, well worth it. The train station of Bijelo Polje is actually much, much more modern, clean, and big than the one in Podgorica. I went to the booth to double-check the information, that the nice smiling girl confirmed! Hurrah! Despite the four hours I had there, I didn’t go too far, sitting in the first restaurant I found.

The night train arrived at 23:23. It turns out that the last two carriages are seats-only, and not sleeping carriages. That’s why you can take it without reservation. Passport control took an age, and I didn’t get stamped out. I was worried that I’d be denied entry next time, which is stupid since a) I can visit Montenegro without passport and b) my passport expires next year anyway. But I tried to ask for one and got sharply told to wait, as they were busy with kicking some people off apparently. Deciding that I’d rather not get myself in that situation, I just made myself small.

Finally, we left the station just before midnight. Goodbye, Montenegro. You were AMAZING! Seriously, if transports and overall infrastructure were more organized and trains ran everywhere, Slovenia might be in danger to stay as my favourite country on Earth. I’ll come back.