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It happens that I am taking the same train to Zagreb than Kora and her friend (I forgot her name, let’s call her Lulu). We go early, but not early enough as we miss the first train from Tivoli Park to the central station. And the next one is late… It’s starting to be a bit worrying. I keep joking that it’ll be just fine to relax them. The twentieth train of the trip finally arrives, and we get to the central station five minutes before the departure. « Plenty of time! »

Once more, I marvel at the splendid slovene countryside. We follow the peaceful Sava river. The clouds are low enough to form nebulous crowns around the mountains, without ever hiding their peaks. Eventually, the relief flattens out.

A passport check (as Croatia is not fully in Schengen yet), and we finally cross into Hrvatska, country number 4!

I don’t have much time in Zagreb, which didn’t look too spectacular. We just grabbed something to eat and pick-nicked in a park, after which I said my goodbyes to the German duo. Now It’s time to push East. Like Samwise Gamegie, one more step and I’ve never been farther East in my life.

Next train is really slow. It took 4 h, and I was sitting on a folding seat. But the window can be opened, and you can put your head out! Oh, the feel of freedom! Awesome!

We had a short change in the small town of Strizivojna, where we arrived late. I ran to the next train, when i realized everyone was looking at me. I needn’t have run, the other train was waiting for us. I can’t believe I am not used to what should be the norm… Why isn’t that simple principle used in France? But then again, Croatia’s rail system is much smaller and less frequently used.

Finally arriving in Osijek, the difference between the coast and the inner region is shocking. And not just in terms of climate: it is clear that the tourists’ money spent in Split doesn’t reach these parts. A lot of dilapidated builings around the train station. I am clearly now out of the beaten path. It’s both a tad disturbing (I feel like people here don’t see that many tourists, theey must think I got lost on my way to Dubrovnik) and exciting (because let’s not pretend, I’m still in a very « easy » place to visit, it’s not like i’m trekking across Africa).

However, there are no hostels here, so i have to make use of Airbnb. My host Marko is a top bloke, and tells me about a huge beer festival that is suposed to happen this week. I’m ready to head out there, unfortunately an opthalmic migraine decided that my fate would be to lie in bed. At 8 PM, I was already fast asleep.