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The day starts with a headache and a grey sky. Not in the best mood, I set to find a pharmacy. I take one of the huge red pills they sold me, and one hour later I was feeling much better. Even the sun started to shine now. I could feel the energy coming back and decide to go for an exploration on the other bank of the river.

It was a short but pleasant forest walk, followed by a stroll through the nearby park. It’s a very long herbous place, with a few benches here and there, running along the river, facing the city of Osijek. The calm is absolute and the warmth of the sun makes it an ideal spot to take a break and read for a bit (La Loi du rêveur, Daniel Pennac).

Slowly, I walk back to the bus station, and I finally leave Osijek. After two hours, we all step off the bus for the passport check on the Croatian side.

Back in the bus, we cross the Beautiful Blue Danube, as well as the border to Србија!

The 19th country I step foot in, but my first with a different alphabet. We have another passport control on the other side of the bridge, this time with an entry stamp for me, my first since 2015 in the United States.

One more hour and we reach Нови Сад (Novi Sad). I didn’t expect such a big city to be honest. It is split in two by a huge boulevard, dotted with stores of all sorts. It’s getting late already, so I try to go for the most direct route to the hostel.

Except I don’t find it. According to Maps, it’s here. But where? I look all around the place, can’t see it. I even ask to bar, they don’t know about it. Ok, that’s worrying. So i call them and explain, in English, my situation. Someone answers me in Serbian… and hang up. Where the hell am i going to sleep? I finally find the little sign on the side of a building in a smaller alley. Phew! It’s not quite over though. Once inside, the old lady that manages the hostel asks me for the 10 euros for the night. With great help from translators, I managed to get her to tell me where I can find an ATM. As it is about 100+ denars to the euro, I get 1,000 denars, and head back, proud of myself.

She refuses to take the money. I wonder why for a moment, and then get the last 10 € note from my wallet. « Thanks », she says, picking the banknote. That’s about the only word of English I’ve heard from her. I got to chat with Gabriel, a German woman who is also going to Београд (Belgrade) tomorrow.